Balkanology :: Explore Southeast Europe
Zagreb Cathedral
Mirogoj Cemetery, Zagreb
Dolac Market, Zagreb
Samobor Parish Church
Samoborsko Gorje
Trg Bana Jelačića, Karlovac
Ozalj Castle and Kupa River
Plitvice Lakes boardwalk
Plitvice Lakes
Varaždin
Gornji Grad, Osijek
Rope ferry on the Drava, Osijek
Kopački Rit
Kopačevo
More photos in the
Croatia Galleries
Inland Croatia
Zagreb, Croatia's capital, is often overlooked by tourists. It may lack the immediate appeal of the Adriatic Coast, but the strong contrast with the coastal towns is reason enough to include it in a tour of Croatia: the Mediterranean feels very far away in this solidly Central European city. Within easy reach of Zagreb is the lovely baroque architecture of tranquil Varaždin. Between Zagreb and the coast, the natural beauty of the Plitvice Lakes National Park is the equal of anything to be found on the Adriatic.
Zagreb
The heart of Zagreb is Trg Bana Jelačića, where the statue of a mounted viceroy watches with raised sword over the comings and goings of the good burghers of Zagreb. To the south is the grid of the 19th century Lower Town (Donji Grad). It's in this part of the city that comparisons to Vienna are unavoidable. But where Vienna has a Ring, Zagreb has a horseshoe, or rather most of a horseshoe. This series of grassy squares emphasises Zagreb's status as a cultural centre, being punctuated by numerous galleries, theatres, and museums (as well as the Botanical Gardens and the train station). Some would say that the elegant Hapsburg-style architecture lacks the grandeur of Vienna; others (including me) would prefer to say that it is less pompous.
North of Trg Bana Jelačića is the Upper Town, Gornji Grad. As you look north the historic hill towns of Gradec and Kaptol are on your left and right respectively. Both can be reached via the steps to Dolac market square, a lively place seven mornings a week. From here Tkalčićeva runs due north, lined with cafes and bars on both sides. Kaptol is traditionally an ecclesiastical centre, and is dominated by the twin-spired Gothic cathedral. The cathedral has been much restored over the years, and part of the building seems to be permanently hidden under scaffolding. Gradec is the home of many government buildings and can seem very quiet at times. At its centre is Zagreb's most kitsch landmark, the heraldic roof of St Mark's Church. You can also reach Gradec from the Lower Town on a toy-like funicular railway.
If like me you are enthralled by atmospheric Central European graveyards, don't miss Mirogoj Cemetery, just north of the centre: it can hold its own against anything to be found in Budapest or Vienna. The highlight is the ivy-covered, cupola-crowned arcade on both sides of the main entrance. Perhaps the most memorable of many striking sculptures is the Milletich family vault, on which Death the Liberator is grimly portrayed as a skeletal female figure. Most of those buried here are Catholics, as you would expect, but it's a non-denominational cemetery and you can also find Orthodox and Jewish symbolism on some of the tombstones.
Practicalities
Zagreb's local transport system consists of a good network of trams supplemented by buses. Although the central area is walkable, trams are useful for getting to the bus station and several hotels; bus #106 goes to Mirogoj Cemetery. Buy tickets at kiosks - the daily ticket is convenient and good value.
As the capital of Croatia, Zagreb is naturally well served by transport links to the rest of the country. Ideally one should arrive by rail. The train station building is one of the most imposing in the Balkans (admittedly the competition is weak), and it's easy to imagine Orient Express passengers of the 1920s crossing the square to the grandiose Esplanade Hotel. The bus station is a relatively dull modern building some distance from the centre. While no one could accuse it of being atmospheric, it is clean and well-organised.
As in many capital cities, accommodation costs in Zagreb are much higher than in the rest of the country. This is especially true outside the summer season - as Zagreb's hotels are aimed more at business than tourism there are no off season reductions. The few central medium-budget hotels can get booked up, so it's worth reserving in advance. The situation is gradually improving and there are more options than a few years ago, especially if you don't mind being a tram ride away from the centre
Around Zagreb: Samobor, Varaždin, and more
If your mental images of Croatia all feature coastal towns with Venetian campaniles perched between emerald seas and grey mountains, head to Varaždin to see someting different. The centre of town is a harmonious collection of Baroque churches and palaces, their pastel colours complemented by a profusion of flowers. A little to the north the whitewashed fortress (Stari Grad) is set in parkland; a short walk to the west brings you to the town's cemetery, where tombstones take second place to lovingly sculpted trees and hedges.
The small town of Samobor is just far enough away from Zagreb to feel like something more than suburb of the city. At weekends many citizens of Zagreb make their way out here to enjoy the town's famous cream cake (Samoborske kremšnite) in cafes around the main square. There isn't a whole lot more to do in the town itself, but you can get rid of those calories by walking uphill through the woods to the ruined castle (Stari Grad); a little bit further up is a lookout tower with great views of the nearby hills and vineyards.
There are plenty of opportunities for longer walks in the neighbouring hills of the Samoborske Gorje. Although there are no really spectacular views, the forested ridges and the orchards and vineyards on the lower slopes make for a very enjoyable day out and a complete contrast to urban Zagreb. Possible targets include Japetić, the highest point at 880m, and Oštrc (752m) which has wider views. It's possible to combine these in an easy day's hiking, starting at Lipovec and perhaps returning directly to Samobor along one of the long eastward-stretching ridges.
To the south and east lie the even more remote Žumberak hills, bisected by the Krupa River which at Ozalj is overlooked by a brightly painted castle and a surprisingly dainty hydroelectric plant. The river emerges into the plain at Karlovac, where it joins three other rivers. The old centre of Karlovac was built behind a very unusual set of star-shaped fortifications - admittedly this shape is quite difficult to see on the ground, but its possible to trace the line of ramparts through the parkland surrounding the city. Karlovac still shows the effects of being near the front line in the 1990s war. Little of the money that went into the high-profile reconstruction of Dubrovnik is evident here; many buildings in the old centre are in poor repair and the attractive central square, which feels like it should be full of open-air cafes, is sadly quiet.
Practicalities
Varaždin is easy to get to, with frequent buses from Zagreb (1.5 hours). There are also quite a few trains, most of which are rather slow. International trains to Hungary and Austria stop here. Frequent buses connect Samobor with Zagreb's main bus station and Črnomerc tram terminal. The town has a few small hotels if you prefer to stay outside the city. Buses also leave Samobor's bus station for villages in the Samoborsko Gorje, making this one of the most accessible places in inland Croatia for walking if you don't have access to a car; route #144 to Lipovec runs at least 8 times daily. The Žumberak region has hardly any public transport. Karlovac is a major junction, with frequent buses and trains to Zagreb as well as connections to most coastal cities, and a branch rail line to Ozalj.
Plitvice Lakes National Park
This national park is located south-west of Zagreb on the old main road to Zadar and Split (although most traffic now uses the new motorway). At the centre of the park is a valley containing a series of 16 lakes. Each lake sits on its own terrace; between each terrace a waterfall has formed as the lake water pours down to the lower level. In contrast to many upland areas near the coast, the valley is covered by dense forest. Indeed it is calcifying vegetation, building up into travertine formations, that creates the waterfalls. It's an ongoing process, as you will see if you look out for the whitening branches of trees that have fallen into the lakes.
The Park is very well organised and you won't need to worry about inadvertently missing something. The National Park authorities have marked out routes of varying length so that you can adapt your itinerary to your available time and energy. There is a network of wooden boardwalks to bring visitors close to the falls, boats carry people across one of the bigger lakes, and a dinky road-train shuttles visitors around the park (all included in the ticket price). Although all this risks creating a theme-park atmosphere, and the boardwalks can get very crowded in the middle of the day when tour groups arrive, it's hard to argue with the intention of ensuring that the falls are accessible to everyone.
Although some of the marked trails can be completed in a few hours, it takes a full day of walking to see all the lakes without rushing. Many visitors focus on the largest waterfall, Veliki Slap, and its immediate surroundings. Veliki Slap (the name simply means "Big Waterfall") is certainly impressive - be prepared for a drenching if you walk to the closest viewing platform. But it is rather atypical of the Plitvice waterfalls, as it is formed by a tributary stream entering the valley. The waterfalls between the lakes are lower than Veliki Slap but more distinctive, often forming complex systems along a wide arc. In many cases the trees add an air of mystery; you can hear the sound of rushing water but are never quite sure when you are going to find yourself gazing at yet another waterfall. If you have time I recommend following trail "K", a relatively quiet path with some lovely views of the upper lakes from above.
Both the volume of water flowing through the park and the number of visitors are highly variable depending on the time of year. The best chance of combining impressive waterfalls with light crowds is probably in April. But the park is worth visiting at any time: I have visited in May, September, and November and the experience was completely different each time
If you are driving between Plitvice and Zagreb you might enjoy a stop in the small town of Slunj to see the waterfalls and mills at Rastoke.
Practicalities
See the FAQ for comments on getting to Plitvice Lakes by public transport. If you don't have a car, this may be the one time in Croatia where you should bite the bullet and shell out for a hotel room (which may mean booking ahead). Accommodation in private rooms is available but not much of it is within walking distance, whereas there are several hotels right at the entrance to the park. Another option is the Korana campsite 6km on the main road 6km north of the entrance, which provides a daily shuttle bus to the park.
Slavonia
Many travellers experience Croatian's easternmost region as nothing more than a vast expanse of flat agricultural land glimpsed through the window of a Zagreb to Belgrade train. It's true that such tourist attractions as Slavonia possesses are rather low-key, and the landscape is generally less appealing than in other parts of the country. But visitors hoping to experience Croatia in all its diversity may enjoy a few days in this region where Croatia blends into Serbia and Hungary. And if you have overdosed on pasta and seafood on the coast, the river fish and goulash of Slavonia will come as a pleasant change.
Osijek, Slavonia's largest city, is the obvious place to make for. It's a likeable city stretched out airily alongside the Drava River. As in Karlovac the physical effects of war are still highly visible, but the city seems to be making a good recovery. There are two town centres: the cobbled lanes of the Tvrđda citadel are generally quiet while most commercial activity takes place further west in Gornji Grad. Look out for the Art Deco Urania cinema, the crumbling Secessionist houses of Europa Avenue, and the Monument to the Defenders - a more imaginative effort than most commemorative sculptures.
A short distance north of Osijek the waters of the Drava River empty into the Danube [check], creating the expanse of marshland and seasonal lakes known protected by the Kopački Rit Nature Park. Try to time your visit to the park to coincide with one of the boat trips that take visitors to one of the peaceful lagoons; otherwise you can walk, drive, or cycle along dykes through the park. The typical plains village of Kopačo near the visitor centre is also worth a quick look.
Practicalities
Cities and towns in Slavonia are connected by good bus services, but getting around rural areas by public transport can require patience. Although Osijek lies to the north of the main Zagreb-Belgrade rail line it has reasonably good connections to Zagreb, with the fastest trains taking about 4 hours. The daily train from Sarajevo to Budapest stops in Osijek, making it an option if you want to break that long journey for a day (although many travellers are likely to find more to interest them in Pécs, just over the Hungarian border). Kopački Rit can be reached by taking a local bus to Bilje and walking about 4km along a quiet road, or by cycling along a well-marked route (part of a larger network of cycle trails in the areas. Not surprisingly accommodation options and especially private rooms are much more limited than on the coast, although rural tourism does seem to be developing around Bilje.
What they said about Zagreb and Plitvice...
... Plitvitse Lakes, the most laughing and light-minded of natural prodigies. Here the creative spirit is as far from the normal as at Niagara or the Grand Canyon or the Matterhorn, but it is untouched by the tragic or by terror, it is dedicated solely to gaiety and loveliness.
- Rebecca West, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon, 1941
Zagreb is a city of many intellectuals, writers and poets. In fact it is the most cultured city in Jugoslavia and has been so for a long time. It is also clique-ridden and infested with snobberies. But one soon forgets all this in Zagreb, a handsome town of nostalgic Viennese charm where the people are most amiable and helpful.
- J.A. Cuddon, The Companion Guide to Yugoslavia, 1968
Zagreb is an urban landscape of volume and space arrangement, where color is secondary. The city requires no sunshine to show it off. Clouds are better, and a chilling drizzle is better still.
- Robert Kaplan, Balkan Ghosts, 1993
After the initial impression [in Plitvice] of being almost too looked after has worn off it tends to be replaced by something akin to euphoria - the lakes really are beautiful after all, and you'd have to be very determined not to be impressed by that much moving water. You can even begin to see why people who live in these conditions start believing in water gods.
- Piers Letcher, Croatia - The Bradt Guide, 2003
More photos of Zagreb and inland Croatia in my Croatia Galleries