Balkanology  ::  Explore Southeast Europe

Albania for Beginners

These practical tips for travellers were provided by Eneid Lika, a regular contributor to the Thorntree on topics relating to travel in Albania.

I thought I would offer to all those who will travel to Albania some practical tips from an Albanian point of view. You might find these tips come in handy and I am sure that the majority you will not be able to find in any travel guide to Albania:

• ALWAYS negotiate a price BEFORE you get in a taxi. Taxis in Albania do not have meters installed, so the price will vary depending on your negotiation skills and naturally the distance to be travelled.
• NEVER make public the place where you hold your wallet. Especially be careful on public buses. Pick-pockets are skilful, just like anywhere in the world.
• NEVER change money with individual 'kambists' in the street. Always use established foreign exchange offices, which you will find everywhere. Although in the street you will find a better rate, the chance of being tricked in the amount changed is by far the largest. When in Tirana (the capital), individual 'kambists' (those who exchange money) will be staying behind the National Bank of Tirana building.
• When using Albanian currency ask the seller whether the price is in NEW Leks or OLD Leks. The difference can be substantial. The amount shown on the banknotes in reality bears a value which is one ZERO greater. For instance, 1000 lek bank note has a value of 10,000 leks (nearly 7 euros); 5000 lek bank note has a value of 50,000 leks. So, if I say 1000 old leks, then the amount remains 1000. If I say 1000 new leks then the amount will be 10,000.
• The bank-note denominations are: 100, 200, 500, 1000, 5000 Coins: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 (I am not aware of any smaller denominations) Remember: Always add a zero at the end, to get the real value.
• [Note: in the previous two points, Eneid regards the old lek as the "real" value. This evidently represents the Albanian viewpoint, as they commonly quote prices in old lek. However as a foreigner, I find it more natural to think of the new lek, the one I see on banknotes, as the "real" lek. This is just a matter of semantics and the result is the same: if I am asked for 1000 old leks, a 100 lek banknote is required; if asked for 1000 new leks, I need to present a 1000 lek note. - Alan]
• Wherever you are: AVOID staring Albanian males. Prolonged eye contact is offensive for Albanians, and in many cases has been a cause for fights.
• Remember, Albanians are overprotective of their women. If you go to clubs, pubs, etc., DO NOT hit on accompanied women. You might laugh at this advice, but it can save your life. Just to illustrate my point, back in 1998 an American marine was shot and heavily wounded by the owner of an Albanian club in the city of Durres. The reason? The marine had touched the owner's fiancee on the buttocks. Point taken I guess?!
• Albanians do not widely except homosexuality. So, I would advise gays NOT to express their sexuality publicly, since they may become prone to attacks by individuals.
• When you are offered something, like a drink or a present, by an Albanian be ADVISED that a rejection can be highly offensive. Albanians are very friendly people, especially towards foreigners, but they do not take rejection very lightly. So when offered something, ACCEPT it.
• The same happens when an Albanian offers to pay the bill. He/she will go to great lengths to have his/her way, so my advice is: DO NOT ARGUE! lol
• When talking to Albanians, do not be surprised when they ask you personal questions about your job, family, etc. This is very usual. They will tell you all their problems, their points of view even if they are very personal. However, you are not obliged to answer these kind of questions.
• Albanian men who do not know each other usually shake hands when they meet. If they are friends, usually they kiss each other on the cheek twice, or four times. Women tend to do this only twice.
• Albanian LOVE coffee (espresso or Turkish). You'll see that whenever they sit to have a drink, coffee will be one of them. However, when an Albanian says: "Let's go for coffee!" this does not necesserily mean that you're expected to drink only coffee. It is just a saying. Also, if you are OFFERED to go for a drink, usually the offeror will pay for you. Always ASK PERMISSION to pay for drinks. Doing so without your Albanian companion's knowledge CAN be offensive.
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• If you drive a car and you want to wash it go to the so-called: LAVAZH or LAVAZHO. There are usually up to 5-6 young men who will wash your car thoroughly (you need to specify if you want it washed either inside or outside, or both). The price of a inside/outside wash is about 4,500 old leks (3 euros). Usually, Albanians leave the car keys with these people, but my advice to you is DO NOT, just to be on the safe side. But stay close since you will be needed to move the car.
• If you drive a Mercedes Benz then I would suggest you pay extra attention to this tip: NEVER park your car in ill-lighted areas, or in less crowded areas. You are ADVISED to park your car in a parking lot, which most of the time will be one guy carrying a GUN and guarding the cars with his life. Usually you'd ahve to pay 500 old leks a night up to 1000 old leks (from 30 cent to 70 cent a night). Since the Mercedes is the most popular car in Albania, it is also more prone stealing than any other brandname. As for the other cars, you can park them by the side of the road and nobody would touch them. This is a more likely situation in Tirana and other big cities like Durres, Fier, Vlora and Saranda.
• Remember, ALWAYS take your car CD player with you when parking, and leave the glove compartment open so as to show that nothing of value is inside!
• When in Tirana and looking for a lovely night out then roam the 'Blloku' area (The Block Area). It is close to the city centre of Tirana and has a lot of cafes, clubs and pubs frequented mostly by the Albanian youth. Also, the cafes of Sheraton Hotel and Towers close to the 'Qemal Stafa' stadium are very popular with good coffee and a large variety of traditional and foreign spirits.
• When in Tirana, buy the Tirana City Guide 2005 (maybe 2006 edition is out). This is a useful source of information on major business and establishments in Tirana. I think it costs something like 2000 old leks (but the price could have changed). Also if you're looking for apartments to rent, or cars, laptops, etc to buy then by the CELSI (the KEY) newspaper. It is quite useful.
• The majority of the foreign embassies in Albania are located in the capital. They are located in the so-called "Rruga e Ambasadave" (literally meaning the "Street of Embassies") which can be accessed through the Kavaja or Durres streets. The Volkswagen car shop which is very close to the street serves as a major point of orientation. However the US, Dutch and Italian embassies are located close to the 'Qemal Stafa' stadium (or close the RTSH - Albanian Radio Television building).
• Remember that most roads in Albania and consequently in Tirana are under construction. Careful driving is ADVISED. The speed limit in the city is 40 km/hr and the seat belt must be fastened. Although you will see most Albanians do not bother to fasten their seat belts, this does not mean that they cannot get fined. The road police usually pull over most foreign number plates for document check-up. Fines in Albania are very severe although you may sweet-talk the Albanian police playing the "I am a foreigner" card to get off the hook once or twice. lol
• During the night you might notice roadblocks set up by armed police in most Albanian cities. DO NOT fear. This is very usual. When approaching a police roadblock, reduce speed to 5km/hr and switch on the cabin headlight. This is normal procedure so that the cops can see your face. If you get asked to pull over, then do so!
• IF you need a mobile SIM card, then you can by an AMC (Albanian Mobile Communications) card or a Vodafone card. I am not sure of the price though. However, you can buy the individual number either on contract or prepaid. Vodafone prepaid top-up cards cost 10,500 old leks (9 euros), those of AMC are 10,000 old leks. REMEMBER: Cards get also sold on the street by little boys who also sell tobacco. If you decide to by a vodafone card from these guys, TOP UP right there and then BEFORE paying for the card. They will not protest as this is a known procedure. Once the balance has been credited then you pay up the money.
• IF you will need to go grocery shopping then you could find various supermarket brands like the Italian Connad, or the Albanian Euromax, and various others. Supermarkets are being opened on weekly bases all over the major cities, especially in Tirana. The biggest supermarket closest to the center is "Connad" which is located oposite "Dinamo" stadium. When you get there you cannot miss it. The prices are reasonable by EU standards, and the products on offer are mainly Italian, but also Albanian etc.
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• If you are in Tirana and you'd like to eat outside, then you are in the right place. Just out of curiosity, the 2 most rapidly growing type of businesses in Albania are: Clubs and Restaurants. Tirana has tons of good restaurants, and new ones get built every 2-3 months. I am going to name but a few:
  
  
  Mosque and Cathedral, Shkodra
  1. 'ERA' Restaurant- this can be found in the 'Blloku' area. Just ask any Albanian where it is and he/she'll tell you straight away. ERA (which in Albanian means 'THE WIND') has a very wide variety of traditional and foreign (mostly Italian) dishes. The prices are relatively cheap. With 20 Euros (together) two persons can have a first, second and third dish with drinks included. The waiters speak English and Italian and the menus are both in English and Albanian.
  2. 'SERENDIPITY' Restaurant - this restaurant can be found on the street behind the 'Presidency Building', which is close to Tirana University Building (you cannot miss this building). This restaurant is slightly more expensive than ERA, but it also features 2 - 3 traditional Mexican dishes, alongside other Albanian traditional dishes. If you go there, ask for a 'Caeser's Salad' which is very nice.
  3. Another good restaurant, and relatively cheap, is the one in the 'Qendra Tajvan' (Taiwan Centre). This is a complex building in the 'Rinia Park' where you can find bowling, a big casino (the first of its size in Albania), cafes, and lastly the restaurant I am going to talk about. The Italian dishes prevail here and they are veryyyy delicious. You have a great collection of white/red wines which range from 5 euros to 400 euros.
  4. If you are into posh restaurants then I would suggest the 'Piazza Restaurant'. This by the side of the Albanian National Museum at Scanderbeg Square (the main square of Tirana). The prices are expensive, but the food is excellent as is the red wine.
  5. There other restaurants which mostly you will find in the Blloku Area. This is the main point of reference for most Albanians becuase the majority of pubs, restauranst, clubs are there.
• The Albanian traditional drink is 'RAKI'. This is made out of grapes (mostly) but other fruits are used also. Nevertheless, Rakija can be found as traditional drink also among Bulgarians, Macedonians and probably Serbs. Albanians have traditionally used Raki as a drink "for every need". If you had a tooth ache, drink a bit of rakia and the pain would go away; if you feeling a bit dizzy you smell a bit of rakia and you'd feel great again; if you had a light wound on your body, you could spray a bit of rakia on it and the wound would clean out. This, my friends, is ALL TRUE! However, Albanians also drink rakia with almost everything. You have it before lunch, during lunch, after lunch (accompanied with fruits or cheese or a bit of salami). So if you get invited in an Albanian house, where you will most probably get offered a glass of raki, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT reject it as it is very offensive to the Albanian host. You can take a few sips and then leave it on the table, but by NO MEANS are you to refuse a glass of it.
• Jumping to religion, statistics speak of 70% of the population in Albania being Muslims and the rest Roman and Orthodox Christians. Although, I doubt the figures are right, I wouldn't want to go against it, since I don't have solid grounds. Nevertheless, as a foreigner you should understand that Albanians have had religious harmony for hundreds of years, and they respect each other's religions. Most probably in every family you'd find different members from different religions. So I would ADVISE you to be careful when expressing your views on one or the other religion; you might offend somebody unintentionally!
• When having a friendly discussion with an Albanian, it will most probably drift towards POLITICS. This is one topic that Albanians spend probably 40 - 50% of their time talking about. My advice to you is DO NOT get involved in such discussions. Albanians can become very passionatly involved in such conversations, and it is no news that friendships have gone sour because political views did not match! Listen, but do not volunteer any ideas which might upset your host. Instead, talk about something else! REMEMBER, Albanians are great company and can sit down and talk for hours with you!
• Weekdays in Tirana, and most of Albania, are normal with people going to work as early as 08:00 in the morning until 16:00 or 17:00. After that, Albanians populate the numerous cafes until probably 22:00 in the evening. However, Fridays and Saturdays are the nights to go out in Tirana. Usually Albanians sit in cafes until 21:00, or maybe a bit later, then go to nightclubs and pubs until early in the morning. The most frequented club is 'The Living Room' which is opposite the Parliament Building in 'Elbasani Street'. The music is loud so you won't be able to converse, but the drinks are of great variety and the music is nice (as are the girls), so you can dance your night away. Here check out this link for the Cafes and Pubs in Tirana: Clubs, Pubs, Albanian Youth. REMEMBER, if you smell trouble get out of the club or pub. Albanians love a bit of a fight and, from my experience, they can get nasty! ;-)
• In Albania, credit cards or debit cards, are rarly used. CASH can get you through any transaction of your choice. However, my advice is put your money in a bank account, and draw cash when you need it. DO NOT walk around with great amounts of cash.
• Usually, the language which will be most helpful in Albania is ITALIAN! That's because most tv channels in Tirana used to be Italian ones. However, English is also spoken by the Albanian youth so I do not think you will have much trouble. In the south Greek is the language of the day, since that's where the Greek minority is. Also if you have knowledge of Russian, it can help with the older generations.

Safety in Albania

Overview

Albania was a communist country for 50 years, thus law enforcement was one of the pillars on which our late dictator Enver Hoxha (pronounced Hodga) built his ruthless 'empire'. During his regime crime was a rare thing. You could get jailed for shouting profanity to women, let alone hit them or rape them; drugs were non-existent, bloodfeud which was so common in the north, was abolished by LAW and fanatically enforced for that mater. However, in 1991 with the collapse of the regime, Albania threw its borders open to the world and thus become prone to the 'forbidden apple' of the advanced society. Drugs, corruption, physical abuse, human trafficing started to flourish in Albania. The Italian mafia started extending its tentacles towards Albania seeing that Albanian gangs were very keen to learn from their "godfathers" across the Adriatic. So, you can imagine what the first years of democracy were like in Albania. From a very isolated country, Albania was free to all the goodness and badness of the world. Then the so-called pyramid schemes started to set up in Albania. People would put money in and get 50% - 100% return on it after only a couple of weeks. In 1997 the schemes collapsed, and that's when all hell broke loose. Sources say that an estimated 1.3 billion dollars of savings were lost in those schemes and Albanians become poorer than before. So the next thing they did was to loot the army bases and 1.3 million rifles dropped in the hands of the civil society.

Now...

Since 1998, when the new government took power, security situation in Albania started to improve. Most of the weapons were collected from the people using incentives like "Get paid 500 euros for handing in your gun" (Felt like Wild Wild West during that time, lol). Now Albania is as safe as any country in the region can be. But just like anywhere, you can hardly keep up with a criminal mind, so being cautios when visiting Albania will help. This is the reason why in most cities you will feel a heavy police presence, but honestly speaking foreigners have nothing to worry about. In Tirana and the southern cities security situation is very good. The north does not fall behind, although it is advisable to be careful in these areas since the Serb army mined the area during the Kosovo Conflict. However, the view in the norhtern highlands is breathtaking.

Although Albanians have been depicted in the foreign media as ruthless criminals, drug lords, human trafficants etc, the reality is that this is the worst part of our society. Just like the Americans have the Cosa Nostra, the Italians have the Sacra Corona, the Russians have their Mafia, the Greeks have their November 17 etc. What these criminals are and do does not in anyway depict the whole society. I feel the foreign media has been very misleading in portraying Albania, thus many people still think that there is war in Albania, or that you get kidnapped in the middle of the day and held for ransom. Fairytales ...

Nevertheless, as a foreigner you should be careful not to force yourself in harm's way. Most Albanians still carry guns around with them although this is illegal, but most of the time they have it just to show off. Afterall, what can we say about the Americans that are LEGALLY allowed to have weapons?!!!

Bloodfeud

You may have heard of the so-called "Gjakmarrje" (Bloodfeud) which is still present in northern Albania. Traditionally bloodfeuds date back to the 1300's and only become 'regulated' by the Code of Lek Dukagjini in 1400's (Kanuni i Lek Dukagjinit). This is a book containing rules that have goverened northern Albania for over 500 years. They are still applicable in the north although not as fanatically followed as before. The rules touch upon most aspects of life like marriage, family, religion, death etc. The rules also legitimate bloodfeud, although it needs to be conform ancient rules: children and women are not to be touched! Thus if there is a quarrel about land and a male from a family gets killed than the victim's family has the RIGHT to kill another male member of the murderer's family (or the murderer himself). However, they are not allowed to attack the house in which the males will be confined (probably for the rest of their lives unless the 'blood is forgiven').

However, my dear friends, bloodfeuds in NO WAY affect foreigners. First of all it is unlawful by the Code's rules; second of all you'd have no reason to get involved. Albanians, be they in the north or south, are very friendly and will go out of their way to help you. This is a characteristic which has distinguished Albanians for generations.

All text on this page copyright Eneid Lika 2006. Photos copyright Alan Grant.

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